Penso e Creo

This is the blog of Nobildonna Fiore Leonetta Bardi (Fee-oh-re) also known as Fiore di Bardi (she/her), my fictional self. I am primarily a costumer, specializing in Florentine dress from the mid-1560s to ~1590, hand sewing, and embroidery. My area of interest includes research of life as an illegitimate woman of mixed race in Florence, the Florentine Camerata, artifacts and practices for a noblewoman of this time — including the practice of hunting and falconry in Florence, and Florentine textiles.


It has been a minute, my friends. The fact is that I haven’t built much clothing at all since my move in May. Then, just as I started to get my crafting space in order news came from the Monarchs of the East that my husband and I will be new Baron and Baroness of … More

Giubbone – Imbottitura

The construction of this doublet is a gift of lessons. Although I have constructed quite a few complicated interlinings, this doublet is probably the most complex thing I have built. Per my last entry, I flew in the direction of a conjecture developed from deep study of the painting (more on this below). Moroni was … More

Giubbone – Pancia

Thinking is dangerous. The doublet padding kept bothering me and I kept returning to the Moroni painting. I was reading more about the construction of a few of these extant doublets and starting to consider padding choices and the line of the front of the doublet. This doublet is a peascod shape but it is … More

Giubbone di Seda – Taglio

Cutting out the various layers which are involved in the fitted garments of the late 16th century requires care and understanding. This particular doublet (Moroni, 1560) is visibly of silk and likely has a silk lining as well, though linen was also possible. The silks had brilliant shine and lovely body but they were not … More


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Join Me In The 16th Century